Quick: What do you know about Torino (or Turin as the English call it)? There is a famous Shroud there? Juventus (and Torino FC) both play the beautiful game there? There was a Winter Olympics held there in 2006 where shockingly the Canadian men’s team did NOT medal in ice hockey – thanks to Sweden, Finland and the Czech Republic – but the Canadian women brought home gold? It’s the headquarters for Fiat? It was home to the first Eataly location (there are now 39 locations, with Toronto getting one sometime in 2019)?
Most travellers to Italy visit Rome, Florence and Venice. Some venture further south to see Capri or the ruins of Pompeii and some might make it up to Milan. Torino is not on most people’s radar. I’m telling you right now that it should be! Why, you ask? Well, what do you like? Churches? Squares? Cocktails? Chocolate? Cars? Soccer/Football? Royalty? This grand city has it all!
We spent two days touring Torino and we could certainly have spent more time there. Here are our suggestions for what to do, what to see and, coming soon, what to eat and drink in Torino. Since our suggestions are a touch on the long side, I’ll break it into two posts.
This week’s post is Grand Torino: To Dos.
Where to stay: We stayed at the Grand Hotel Sitea. The hotel is conveniently located for walking around the town and the modern, large rooms boast a free mini-bar (!) which offers Amaro along with water, beer, juice, vodka, gin and scotch. They also boast a Michelin-starred restaurant (Carignano) where hotel guests receive a discount. Definitely TravelFoodCool recommended!
What to see: Here is TFC’s list of places to visit in Torino.
Piazza San Carlo
Hours: Open all day
This large piazza features 17th-century architecture and covered arcades for shopping and cafes. In the centre is the monument to Emmanuel “Ironhead” Philibert. Emmanuel Philibert, the Duke of Savoy, regained the territory of Turin and moved the capital of his duchy to Turin from Cambéry, as well as making Italian the official language (sorry Latin). He died in Turin and was buried in the Duomo di Torino in the Chapel of the Holy Shroud (Cappella di Sindone).
In Piazza San Carlo, you can see the Duke of Savoy charging away from the “his and hers” churches of Santa Cristina (left) and San Carlo (right).
Mole Antonelliana
Hours: 9:00AM – 8:00PM
Originally intended to be a synagogue, when this tower was being built, no one imagined that it would become the symbol of Turin. After going wildly over budget, the Municipality of Turin bought it from the original owners and let architect Alessandro Antonelli continue building the tallest building in Europe (at time of completion in 1889). The total height is 167.5m. “Mole” is a word that best translates to “wonder” and that is an accurate description indeed.
You can take the panoramic elevator up to the terrace 85m up. Please do this – the glass elevator zips straight up through the centre of the building through the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (buy the combo ticket that lets you do both the elevator and the museum).
Museo Nazionale del Cinema
Hours: Daily 9:00AM – 8:00PM
We loved this museum in the Mole Antonelliana. It is a movie lover’s heaven! Why a movie museum in Torino? Because Torino was one of the early capitals of European filmmaking. Inside, you’ll find movie memorabilia and exhibits from the early days of silent film to the present. There are five floors of exhibit space.
We loved stretching out in the super comfy chairs in the screening room and watching and listening to sound in cinema. What a great way to appreciate famous movie scores, from the soundtrack accompanying Scarlet O’Hara’s “I’ll never be hungry again” speech to the opening credits of Star Wars.
There are film posters, props, books and photos as well as Superman’s (the Christopher Reeve version) original cape.
There is currently also an amazing exhibit on sound in cinema from silent film days to the present, including musicals, modern musicals and MTV videos. State of the art headphones automatically play the music of whatever screen you stand before. At the top of the building, a display lets you change the soundtrack to a famous movie scene to change the feel of the scene. It was interesting to see Dustin Hoffman driving away at the end of The Graduate not to “Mrs. Robinson” (as per the film), but to Led Zeppelin’s “Rock and Roll”. Another display lets you dance with John Travolta in “Saturday Night Fever”.
Piazza Castello
Hours: Open all day
Spinning around the square that was centre of unified Italy’s first capital lets you admire the Royal Palace, Royal Library, and the Royal Theatre, among other structures. The castle (Palazzo Reale) is a fortress build on top of Roman ruins (still visible). Portico-lined arcades shelter stores and more cafes and restaurants.
Stop in the Galleria dell’Industria Subalpina (more simply known as Galleria Subalpina). This historic building has been called the “sexiest gallery in the city” (Turin writer Giuseppe Culicchia).
Palazzo Madama
Hours: Closed on Tuesday (open 10AM – 6PM other days)
Palazzo Madama e Casaforte degli Acaja was the first Senate of the Italian Kingdom and is named after its embellishment from two Queens of the House of Savoy. It’s possible to visit this building as it’s now a museum housing the Turin City Museum of Ancient Art. (We did not go through this museum.)
Palazzo Reale
Hours: 9AM – 7:00PM
The Royal Palace! While we may forget that Italy was a kingdom for many years, one step in this palace will certainly remind you! From the Grand Staircase (a 17th-century addition by Filippo Juvarra to modernize the 16th-century palace) to the many visitor, courtier and chamber rooms, Throne Rooms and Queens’ rooms, the grandiose of the House of Savoy is front and centre.
With the ticket to the palace, you also have entry to the armouries (see below).
Armeria Reale
Hours: 9AM – 7:00PM
This gorgeous gallery contains one of the richest weapons collections focused on the 16th – 18th centuries in the world, compliments of Charles Emmanuel I. A stunning room with a great display of armour (for people, pages and horses), weapons (lances to guns) and flags. You can see the armour of Emanuele Filiberto and that of his horse.
Church of San Lorenzo
Hours: 7:30AM – 12:00PM; 4:00PM – 7:00PM
Walk next door to the palace to see the Baroque-styled Church of San Lorenzo. This was the first home of the Shroud of Turin when it arrived from Chambéry (prior to moving to the Duomo). Don’t be fooled by the simple exterior, the inside is adorned with marble statues and columns. When you first enter, there is a separate altar on the right. The steps in front are to be climbed on your knees.
Duomo di Torino e Cappella di Sindone
Hours: 7AM – 12:30PM; 3PM – 7PM
The Duomo dates back to the late 15th century. The shroud is not displayed, but is in a large case behind glass. It is one of the most studied and controversial religious objects in history.
The Roman Palatine Towers
Hours: all day
Take a scenic walk from the Duomo of Turin to the Mercato di Porta Palazzo and check out Porta Palatina, one of the original gates of the city and the Roman ruins in the park. This 1st-century BC gate is one of the best-preserved Roman gateways in the world.
Mercato di Porta Palazzo
Hours: 7am – 2pm
Driving into town, we were a little surprised that we had to drive through the periphery of this grand marketplace to reach our hotel! This is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe. Here, you can find fresh herbs and vegetables, eggs, pasta, bread, prepared foods, butchers, clothing stalls and home supplies. There are also several covered buildings, one of which was built by Napoleon as a stable for his horses and is now a fish market.
Basilica La Consolata
Hours: Majority of the day (Royal Tombs closed 1:30 -2:30 as well as other random times (we were there at 1pm and the Tombs were closed)).
A prominent Marian sanctuary, Basilica La Consolata has been a pilgrimage site for centuries as it is famed for its healing powers. The building has grown over the years since its 5th-century start as a small chapel with an icon dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Sculptures of various saints and columns bask in the glowing light and the Baroque decorations. The church is also the burial place of local saints.
Egyptian Museum
Hours: Daily 9:00 AM – 6:30 PM
The Museo Egizio, or the Egyptian Museum, holds over 30,000 pieces. It is the second largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world and the single largest museum of ancient Egyptian artifacts outside of Cairo. The first piece arrived in Turin in 1630 and King Charles III was so enamoured that he commissioned botanist Vitaliano Donati in 1753 to travel to Egypt to acquire more treasures. Famed Egyptologist Schiaparelli’s 1900 and 1920 expeditions increased the collections. His finds included the intact tomb of Kha (a builder of the pharaoh’s tombs) and Merit (his wife). In the museum, you can also see statues, an altar to Isis, several sarcophagi and mummies, as well as everyday items and funeral offerings. The museum houses the oldest known copy of the Egyptian Book of the Dead (as well as two other copies).
The museum was founded in 1824 by King Carlo Felice. How important is this collection? After Jean-François Champollion deciphered the Rosetta Stone, his first stop was the Egyptian Museum in Turin.
Basilica di Superga
When: 9-12; 3-6 – note the crypts are closed on Wednesday
This is a stop to take on your way out of town as it is approximately a 25 minute drive out of Turin. To get to this church, you must drive (or walk or cycle if you are brave) the many-switchbacked road that climbs to the top of the Superga hill. Once there, you are rewarded with a stunning view of Turin as well as a visit to the final resting place for many a king and prince of the House of Savoy. Duke Victor Amadeus II of Savoy had the church (a moment to the Virgin Mary) built to fulfill a promise in 1706 as a thank you for the victory of Turin over Franco-Spanish forces.
At the back of the church is a sad monument to the entire 1949 Torino FC soccer team that died when their plane crashed into the back of the Basilica.
Torino, I can’t wait to return to you!
Coming soon – Grand Torino Part Two: Eating and Drinking
